10 Must-Sees in Cooktown

Not very many small towns have more character than Cooktown. If you’re traveling to Queensland, especially anywhere north of Brisbane, making a trip up the closest town to the Great Barrier Reef is a must. Cooktown is the last town on the paved road. It’s where the pavement, or “bitumen” as the Aussies call it, ends. You’ll get a true taste of the “real” Australia when you head north up the coastal highway and experience salt water crocodiles, snakes and wallabies. These are the Top 10 Must-Sees once you hit the dirt road and end up in Cooktown!

10. Endeavour River

The floorboards of the HMS Endeavour crumbled as Captain Cook’s men were simultaneously thrown forward, across the ship deck. The canvas sails continued to tug at the ship in the fierce wind as the men scrambled to break the vessel free. The ship’s bottom deck were damaged after the collision with a coral reef, and water was pouring in. Captain Cook and his men managed to slide into the mouth of what is now the Endeavour River where they remained for almost seven weeks.

This historical and diverse waterway system is full of stories, secrets and life. Take a boat ride through the channels and mangroves to get close and personal with flying foxes, birds, shipwrecks and crocodiles. The Riverbend Tours offer sunset cruises that give you a unique chance to experience the river in the dark. With the stars above you, and a drink in your hand, you can be on the lookout for wildlife as you listen to stories about the history of Cooktown. Keep and eye both on the sky and the water…you never know what critter might sneak up on you!

 

9. Finch Bay

There are many treats waiting for you at the end of Walker Street in Cooktown. Follow Walker Street to the end – don’t let the dirt road intimidate you – until you find a small, gravel parking area. The alluring path through the trees will lead you to the golden sands of Finch Bay. Be careful while touring this exquisite beach, and don’t be too quick to take a dip. Crocodiles, sharks and jellyfish – oh my! – lurk in these attractive waters. The small creek that runs through the southern part of the beach is known as Alligator Creek for a reason. Keep your distance, and keep your wits about as you walk along the water’s edge and climb on the mammoth, granite rocks. The most well-known rock at Finch Bay is “Whale Rock”, the large rock that resembles a beached whale (you can’t miss it).

If you’re up for a hike, follow the signs from Finch Bay to Cherry Tree Bay. You can also access the track to Cherry Tree Bay from the Botanic Gardens, or even half way up Grassy Hill (there is a sign directing you to the bay). The hike is around 20-30 minutes long. It’s not rare to have the beach to yourself, seeing as it is only reachable by hiking or boat. This secluded beach will provide you with swaying palm trees, aquamarine water and white sands.

Just as Walker Street turns into a dirt track, you will find the Botanic Gardens parking lot. These gardens are open all year long, and are free of charge. A wide array of indigenous flowers brighten up the lush, green gardens as you walk down the rainforest paths. Grab some lunch or a refreshment at the small cafe, Nature’s Powerhouse, to refuel after your adventure.

 

8. The Lions Den

The Lions Den is a historical pub in the small town of Helenvale, 2.5 miles (4 km) outside of Cooktown. It was built in 1875 on the banks of the Little Annan River, and has become an important stop for travellers of the Cape York Peninsula. Embrace the unique atmosphere of “The Den” by exploring the quirky decorations on the walls or enjoying live music on the weekends – one of the local musicians plays rib bones as his instrument of choice. If you need to cool off, you can take a dip in the river – one of the few safe swimming holes near Cooktown.

For the full experience, spend a night or two camping on the river banks. The Den offers campsites that are suitable for tents or campers/caravans. If you aren’t a camper, try “glamping” in one of their safari tents that are fit to house a king or queen!

 

7. Black Mountain National Park

Whether you’re a nature lover, or a paranormal junkie, you’ll want to add this spot to your bucket list. The Black Mountain National Park is a mysterious landmark found off of the Mulligan Highway, 15.5 miles (25 km) outside of Cooktown.

The “mountains” are made out of massive, granite boulders that create pyramids; some of the boulders are a comparable size to a house. There are dozens of stories of people, horses and entire herds of cattle vanishing without a trace amongst the mountains. It is said that whoever enters the labyrinth of passage ways under the mountains will never return, so maybe don’t try to be Indiana Jones while you’re visiting. It is recommended to observe the mountains from the viewing platform near the highway due to the inexplicable nature of the supernatural rocks, but some brave folks will wonder out onto the boulders.

 

6. Trevethan Falls

If you like waterfalls, this will be a no-brainer. Take a swim in a safe – I promise, no crocs in these waters – and stunning swimming hole under Trevethan Falls. The falls cascade down vine-covered rocks into a deep pool of water that offers an icy refreshment to beat the muggy heat of Far North Queensland. Four-wheel drive is necessary to reach Trevethan Falls, especially in the wetter months. In the dry months, you will be able to get fairly close to the falls in two-wheel drive vehicle; once the road gets too rough, just park the car and continue walking down the 4×4 road.

The waterfall will be fuller, and more impressive, during the rainy season but a visit is still worth it during the dry season.

Take the Amos Bay turn off the Mulligan Highway about 8 miles (13.5 km) south of Cooktown. Be prepared for a short, but steep, trek up to the swimming hole from the “car park”. The 4×4 road will continue up the steep hill, but you will want to take the footpath cutoff on your right. Take a leap from the rope swing, off the rocks (watch the locals for a safe jump) or explore the small pools that have formed below the swimming hole. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can continue climbing up the 4×4 road to the pool on top of the falls, but be warned – you might find leach or two. The leaches don’t survive the waterfall, if they take the leap, so the bottom pool is leach free!

 

5. Mount Cook

Standing above Cooktown, at 1,415 feet (431m) is the sumptuous peak of Mount Cook. Being the highest point in the town can only mean one thing: it has the best view. The hike can be strenuous at times, so be equipped with water and snacks. The hike is about 3.7 miles (6 km) return, and will take between 3-4 hours return.

For an extra special view, start your hike early in the morning, about 1-2 hours before the sunrise. Bring a headlamp with you as you ascend up the trail; the sun will rise just as you summit the mountain. Whether you wish to see the sunrise or not, hiking early in the morning is the best way to avoid the inevitable heat of the day. The views at the summit will be nothing short of amazing as you overlook the tropical canopy of the surrounding area and the deep blues of the ocean.

 

4. The Wharf

The wharf is an iconic symbol of Cooktown, so you can’t leave town before you check it out. At the end of the main street in Cooktown (Charlotte Street), you will always find a few fishermen trying their luck off one of the piers, no matter what time of day it is. If you’re not into fishing, take a walk along the shoreline. Take in the views of the mountains across the river, and the turquoise tones of the river. Cool off in the “splash pad” – a small, free waterpark – or get your sweat on by using the free exercise equipment.

On certain nights of the week, the small cafe near the wharf will feed the Giant Groupers that live under the wharf. Groupers are the largest bony fish found in coral reefs, and an aquatic emblem of Australia. The feeding can attract Groupers that exceed six feet in length and massive stingrays among other fish species. Check the sign outside the cafe – Cooks Landing Kiosk – for feeding times. If you find yourself at the wharf after dusk, shine a flashlight into the water; you may get a glimpse of a shark or lion fish.

 

3. Quarantine Bay/Walker Bay

Yet another pair of beautiful beaches in Cooktown where swimming isn’t advised, although some of the locals will jump in. Crocodiles have been spotted off of both of these beaches, so keep to the sand. Both Quarantine and Walker Bay are located about 5 miles (8 km) from Cooktown, and are worth checking out. Quarantine Bay’s upper beach is lined with rocks, while the lower beach is made up of soft, golden sands. Mount Cook stands proudly, overlooking the beach, providing a steep, tropical backdrop.

From Walker Bay, you can access the mouth of the Annan River where you might spot some fisherman, or even some kite surfers. Both bays are perfect for beach football, taking a run (or taking the dogs for a run), spotting wildlife and taking breath taking photos. Although you may see some four-wheel drive vehicles driving down the bays, I wouldn’t recommend it; the sand can be deep and soft, making it difficult to manoeuvre down the beach. Head out the the beach early to catch a stunning sunrise over the water.

2. Archer Point

Whether you are only going for a day trip, or you want an awesome campsite for a few nights, Archer Point is the place to be. Located 12.5 miles (20 km) south of Cooktown the Wet Tropical Rainforests of Queensland meet the Great Barrier Reef. There are plenty of activities for you to enjoy the beautiful surroundings, although swimming can be dangerous. Check out the lighthouse, hike around the trails, go snorkelling (stinger suits are recommended and beware of crocs), or look for local wildlife around the dunes and reef beach. You might be able to spot dingoes, striped possums, tree kangaroos, dugongs or turtles while you explore.

If you decide to camp for the night, make sure you catch the sunrise as it peaks up over the water and paints the sky. Archer Point is notorious for high winds, so pick a low, hidden campsite if you can. During the dry season, you are able to reach Archer Point in a two-wheel drive vehicle (four-wheel drive is usually needed during wet months).

 

1. Grassy Hill

There isn’t a local in Cooktown that hasn’t been up to Grassy Hill. The old lighthouse and viewing platform overlook the town and the Endeavour River on one side of the hill, and the Coral Sea on the other side. You can take the easy way and drive up to Grassy Hill; it only takes a few minutes in a car. If you’re ambitious and want some exercise, you can walk along the road to the lighthouse. If you decide to walk, bring some water with you as it’s a steep incline the entire way.

The view from Grassy Hill during the day is spectacular, and worth the visit (see my photo next to #10 Endeavour River). Having said that, watching the sun set from Grassy Hill is the best way to experience the beautiful spot. Make sure you get to the peak of the hill at least a few minutes before the sunset, and then spend some time watching the sky after the sun has disappeared. The best colors usually come after the sun has descended.